I am definitely not a romance novel kind of guy. But that doesn’t mean I don’t have a little spark of romance in me. I mentioned in Death’s Door a trip we took for our anniversary in June. We spent the weekend in Door county Wisconsin for their annual Lighthouse Festival.
Lighthouses hold a fascination for us. St. Augustine Florida was the first one we visited in the ’90’s. That got us hooked. To date we have been to 175 different lighthouses on both oceans and all five Great Lakes. In fact, my son, who was visiting recently, declared that we are geeks about lighthouses because we keep an “esoteric inventory” of them. He picked that up from an interview with Adam Savage from “Mythbusters”. I guess he’s right.
Me and the wife actually sat down and discussed why we are drawn to these crazy things. What it seems to boil down to is the stories. There is the romance of the sea, the power of nature, acts of heroism, different places and times in history, the sacrifice of families living in isolation at remote locations and of course the love stories.
When you climb those spiral, cast iron steps that have stood there for 150 years, you imagine you are the keeper carrying oil up to the lamp. The higher you climb the further back you go in time. You step out on to the observation deck. The modern towns and condos on the shore fade. There is only the water. In your mind you see a ship in the dark, twelve miles out being coarsely bullied by the irrational sea. In the pilot house the captain takes comfort from and sets his course by the beacon flashing over your head.
On this latest trip we visited nine different light sites, six for the first time. Five of those six were on islands that we saw on a special boat tour that sails once a year weather permitting.
Many of the island lights have been abandoned for decades and some are in advanced stages of decay. With modern technology like radar and GPS, lighthouses are no longer needed for navigation. We were saddened to learn that the Poverty Island and St. Martins Island lights – both in Michigan waters – are on a doomsday list and are slated to be demolished.
Some lights are saved by non-profit groups that raise money and volunteer their time. In the case of these two, they are so remote and the islands so desolate it just isn’t feasible.
My wife’s “favorite” lighthouse is Eagle Bluff. It is not the most picturesque location or unique design. What she especially likes, are the stories.
One of the keepers had a large number of sons. That was a boon in regard to tending the livestock and garden, and when it was time to paint. All were pressed into service to paint; even the smallest was required to paint up as high as he could reach. When the lighthouse was restored some years back they found 90 coats of paint on some walls. They figured there should have been about 60. The mystery was solved when they interviewed the youngest son who was then in his 80’s. He told them that mother had a penchant for having the boys get out the brushes and mix up the paint when they misbehaved.
The boys were all accomplished musicians and would often entertain the family and guests in the evening. On Saturday night they would take their instruments, including the piano, down to Fish Creek and play at the weekly dance. And the stories go on.
The Sherwood Point light was one we had never seen. You could only view it from the water. It had not been open to the public for over 40 years because it was U.S. Coastguard property. By special arrangement, it was open to the public the two days we were there this summer. Of course this light has a story too.
Keeper Henry Stanley transferred from Eagle Point Light and first lit the lamp on October 10, 1883. Miss Minnie Hesh, Mrs. Stanley’s niece, came to visit from Brooklyn, New York, in the fall of 1884 after the death of her parents. Like many Door county visitors, she stayed.
In 1889 Minnie married William Cochems, the son of a Sturgeon Bay businessman. Cochems became acting assistant keeper in 1894. Upon Keeper Stanley’s death in 1895, Cochems was appointed Keeper. Minnie was appointed assistant keeper in 1898.
A Keeper’s wife had a very busy life. There is the gardening, canning and cooking, tending to the needs of the children and all the other chores of washing, ironing, cleaning and… That was all part of the life of a wife and mother in her home at the beginning of the twentieth century.
We often don’t think of the fact that a lighthouse is three different things. Though it is a family home, first it is a lighthouse. With that comes all the work and responsibility of maintaining the light. Cleaning the lens, trimming the wicks and hauling the oil were primary. Checking the lamp, refilling the oil, and winding the clock-works needed to be done every two hours, every night during the shipping season.
What we don’t consider is that a lighthouse is owned and regulated by the federal government. An inspector could show up anytime without notice. Poking his nose in anywhere, he would evaluate everything. Laundry and ironing had to be finished and out of sight by 10:00 AM. Being a public building, they had to be ready to receive guests and give tours at any time.
William and Minnie, the Keeper and his assistant, did it all for thirty years, until Minnie’s death. They worked side by side raising a family, maintaining the light and growing in their devotion to each other. This was a partnership; they were a team demonstrating what a marriage should be.
William dearly loved his wife and greatly mourned her passing. He buried her on a hill near the lighthouse. In remembrance of her years of service, William built a stone marker that bears a plaque in her honor. He retired five years later.
Sherwood Point was the last manned lighthouse on the Great Lakes being automated in the fall of 1983.
If you get to visit Sherwood Point, you can go down the sidewalk to the northeast and see Minnie’s marker. If you ever get to spend the night there, don’t bother to do the supper dishes. They say that Minnie’s ghost visits at night, washes the dishes and sets the table for your breakfast.